Sport grade to v grade reddit ice tools with no ice) use the D-grade prefix (e. 1). I would consider sending low to mid-grade vintage to SGC, only because it’s a cheaper option and their end value won’t be much different than those types of cards in a PSA slab. That's when they started to use exponents in grade 5. Are US gyms soft? EU gyms sandbagged? Thing I noticed on this sub is that US gym boulders seem to be about 2-3V grades higher… I remember reading a research article (maybe referred in a YouTube video) that compared bouldering and sport climbing, in which those who boulder the V-grade equivalent to the Yosemite grade could climb the sport route but those who climb the sport route equivalent v-grade could not always do the boulder grades. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The Yosemite Decimal System (which is the one that's mostly used in the US, and the one you'll see around here most often - it's the 5. See full list on topbouldering. Sport climbs are usually graded on a) the hardest move OR b) there is no singular crux / hard move and what makes it hard is pump management. 11c sport climb or trad climb based on the length of the climb, their mental ability, strategy and endurance. Share sports (and relevant non-sports) cards and collectibles, pulls, news, memorabilia, funny stories, case and box breaks, and absolutely no ebay auctions. Now (12th) I want to get back on the team (can only join varsity as senior) but the tryouts are not until December. V0-V2 equates to 0-5c or so in the font grading system, but with the v-system there's not a lot of separation in the grades, while in the font system there's a lot of individual grades up to 5c, the equivalent of v2. Although above the low 12/7a+ range the boulder grade to route is way off on the higher sport grades. g Yellow is v1-2. Anecdote about moonboard grade vs outdoor performance - how true is it? I heard from someone that oftentimes your highest moonboard grade will be 2 grades lower than your outdoor grade (of the same style). If anything, maybe grade the auto or just authenticate it. 8+ in the Gunks to a 5. or 2-3, 3-4, 4-5, hard to use the V scale to compare though Reply reply Cbastus • Maximum move difficulty potential on a Sport Climb Grade Hi guys I've been wondering about comparing bouldering grades with sport climbing with regards to looking at each move in isolation. ) Reply reply Spydrz • Yea, they claim about 1 grade overlap between grades, so if you were using a V scale 1-3, 3-5, 5-7 ect. This is while in route descriptions you’ll see things like “easy climbing to a boulder crux” OR “sustained climbing” (meaning no bouldery crux section). I was curious as to others' experiences in bouldering plateaus - how long would you say they last and at what levels? I've been told that top-roping people can plateau at 5. Someone who can pull V3 Boulder problems may or may not be able to complete a 5. Most first time climbers get up a 4a with no problem. To my surprise V5 converts to 7b and V6 to 7c in the french scale. It depends on what you consider to be your sport grade. V3s outside feel easier generally than a v3 inside. There are climbers that can flash V12 on a regular basis but cannot compete in a competition. If you're referring to onsite, just bump up the grades a bit. 5kg (82. I was reading and watching a lot about the V5/V6 plateau that most intermediate climbers hit, and I was expecting this to be around the 6b on the french scale. Before reaching a 6C+ there's a town of option for beginners, at least 8 grades in my gym. Advantage is just like Tarsiz commented, you have grade ranges so the setter will have a easier time grading routes as they will have some margins from the corresponding grade. In the gym, there is usually a very narrow gap between flashable and impossible. If you have a $50 card, but a PSA 9 only sells for $70, spending $30 to grade the card would be a waste of time and money. com link. Here’s another Grade Conversion Chart. Even the United Kingdom, which MAW hangs/ weighted pull ups V grade chart Does anyone have that chart that was posted a few months ago? I think it was maybe power company? It's a a rough graph of your weighted hangs and weighted pull ups to assess bouldering grade. The grades of boulders vary from V6-V12 but the best competitors are able to climb EVERY single style of boulder problem, where as most people can only do their upper grades in one style. Thank you! Am I right to assume the colors between edge grades distribute evenly with some overlap? (E. Except for Japan, which uses the Dankyu system, a grading system based on Martial Arts grading. 12- and V5-6 for a given 5. Here, we’ll take a look at how the conversion works and why it’s important. 10 (presumably the hardest you've led outdoors). I had a hard time finding a chart online that converts the Sherman V-grade system for bouldering into the Yosemite Decimal System for climbing. But I checked this data with This is a bouldering climbing grade conversion chart. Falling on gear isn't a sure thing either. Could lead climbing that same route increase its grade in theory? In my gym there are walls where you can climb top rope or lead with the permadraws along the same routes. 7 pounds) with two arms. The other system you'll see around here a lot is the V-grade system used in bouldering. 12b in the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). 12A / V5-6 Judging on comments alone, I would say most people here boulder way harder relative to their sport climbing grade, and could push that sport grade up if they were doing it more. Are other numbered cards such as 2/5 worth grading or hot player pulls like victor wembanyama cards are all worth to submit? Any advice will be helpful or if there's a website that can help that would be great. your best bet will be to ask the gym staff, they might be able to point you in the right direction. Both are at the same price. So I played on the jv soccer team during 10th grade but then stopped. PSA = resell ability as everyone drools over PSA, but they offer no protection of the actual card inside the slab BGS = the most protective slab as it’s thicker and has a fitted sleeve over the card inside and you know with sub grades why you got the grade CSG = decent looking slabs but you can truly see how beautiful the card is with the slab, it really showcases the shine and it’s cheap Basically, at what point does grading not add value? For example, if a card is going for $100 raw, what grade would cause it to remain at $100 or only slightly increase value? A PSA 9? 8? I know this is a tricky question but wondering if anyone has any information I'm in doubt about this two bikes. Inside: Who cares Outside: 5. SCC has a table converting between bouldering limit and sport grade, though their sport grades are given in American format. Hello everyone! I've (24m) been climbing for 5 years, almost exclusively sport climbing for 2. My gym uses as lowest grade a 2, which is a kiddie-route for birthdayparties. The “middle of the bell curve” climber at each grade trends upward from 125-175%bw hangs from V3-V13. 6 in year two, and the last season, ending in October, I started on sighting 5. I cant find any referance to a grading system like that, it might be one they made up for the gym. But the Font grades on the Rockfax grade chart match up differently to the V grades than the 'French' grades on the rockclimbing. If sports is getting in the way of your grades, and grades matter to you, cut down on sports. While sport climbing has a wide variety of grading systems used by different countries, when it comes to bouldering, most countries have adopted either the Font or V scale grading system. And climbers don't get as locked in on grades as they may try a harder route without even knowing it's harder, or än easier giving them a confidence boost. If you are referring to projecting grades, V4-V5 should be fine for most moves on a given 5. School comes more easily to different people. Either that or they start projecting sport climbs only and never actually go "cragging" just to do new stuff and have fun at the crag. It's my understanding that grades are all just relative, based on general consensus from those who've climbed the route. 8, and working 5. Consistency is a pipe dream. French grades start at 1, with that being very easy climbing. Find equivalent difficulty across systems. Josh addresses this in the video here. Bouldering grades: V scale and french grade conversion? Can someone help me get straightened out with the conversion from the v scale to the french (Font) scale? I am trying to understand the V-grading scale. 7 isn't so far from 5. If you grade it and get a 10, it's still 1/1. What grade ranges do you think the colours match up with? No grade moralising. One nice add-on is “card 70 votes, 153 comments. Reply I'm going to hazard a guess that you don't have any 9B+ boulders and I would be really amazed if you have genuine 9b+ sport routes as well. 5’s still hold good value in most circumstances. Most people have exactly this experience in the gym, and it’s true at a variety of grades. 5. Hi everyone. Roughly a year ago all 3 of my local gyms got rid of the v grading and changed to a colour scale. Pure dry-tooling routes (i. I was going to say that the two French scales here in the UK are distinguished - There's French (Fr) for routes and Font for bouldering. Feedback/critique needed for my training plan. In fact, I can go a few weeks Based off my experience climbing 5 or 6 V grades below my max, I imagine for someone like Daniel Wood the difference between V10 and V11 isn't any much more than the difference between V6 and V7. 12 votes, 20 comments. What do these grades translate to in V-grade and British system? I had a hard time finding a chart online that converts the Sherman V-grade system for bouldering into the Yosemite Decimal System for climbing. If you can manage it financially, grade them at least for authentication and general protection. Grading in gyms is also highly variable. I'd suggest more milage on g rated climbs until you can easily find your gear/appropriate sizes. And naturally I'm a bit curious where I stand now. Thanks! It's already 1/1. If for example you can climb V6 what do you think would be the Sport grade you where would be able to do every move in isolation (not linked)? Huge gap between vert and overhang sport grade. In theory, a trad route of a given grade should be similar in physical difficulty to a sport route of the same grade, but will feel harder because of carrying a cumbersome rack, the knowledge and skill needed place gear effectively - and/or the mental control required when opportunities to place gear aren't as frequent as you might like. Feb 18, 2011 · In theory anyone who's done a lot of redpointing (I haven't) should have a good feel for this conversion: if you can pull all the moves when working a route then you know where they are within your bouldering grades. My max grade hasn’t shown much improvement in years but I feel I’ve become a much more well rounded climber. Now is not the time to be testing your placements. Key Takeaways The French 8a+ grade represents the upper end of the sport climbing We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. How would the graph look in terms of grade (x-axis) and "difficulty" units (y-axis)? I know it's difficult to objectively quantify difficulty, but would we expect the graph to look more linear or exponential? Is the jump from X+1 -> X+2 always harder than from X -> X+1? What has been your personal experience with jumps in grades - have the later Just curious about how you all feel your climbable grades indoor compare to outdoor. Let's say a route is set at a certain difficulty for top rope. Are easy gym grades luring climbers into a false sense of ability that could get them into trouble when attempting the same grade outsides (perhaps for the first time on rock)? We all have been seeing these ridiculously graded problems lately, everyone rightfully calls out how soft the grade is (yes you can tell from a video when a jug haul is not a v6) and we wait to comment on the next soft 1 day ago · Dallas Cowboys rookie CB Shavon Revel is becoming a concern amid a playoff push, even if his mistakes didn't stop America's Team from winning on Thanksgiving. How to get upgoats on r/climbing: google image search "climbing grade conversion" post 1st result profit??? I suspect a big reason there is a lot of data “missing” in the below 7A range for +’s is that the grade conversion in the US doesn’t generally use them. As to Emil’s video and the supposed incongruencies, well he had responses giving a perceived idea on what grade they would give these strength benchmarks. 5 pounds) with a body weight of 67kg (147. 14b. For example, If someone who climbs a V6 could climb a 5. , 60% 7/3 repeaters) and sport climbing performance have the same outliers as strength:bouldering grade? If you want to describe the difficulty of a single move or sequence, use a boulder grade. I see all the time in instagram, people climbing v5 and v6s and a lot of people commenting the grade is not correct. As your trad grade gets closer to your sport grade is when you will start pushing. 11b, my outdoor sport onsight to 10b, and my trade grad was 5. I am currently projecting a V4 at my local bouldering gym and wanted to know what E-Grade equivalent it would actually convert to, because I bet it’s freakin’ hard and could maybe seek sponsorship. The British tech (numbers) grade is a nightmare though, because it looks like the French sport grades but the numbers stay lower and interact with the adjectival - so E3 6a is equivalent to F6c in terms of pure climbing ability. Here's the link if you're interested. Cool. Grades really don't mean a whole lot--indoors or out. Anyways, since I had a hard time I just made one. So my country uses the french scale for indoor sports climbing. Since even on the YDS system we now grade french style, based on the route as a whole and no long the "most difficult individual move". M8), with other notable mixed grading systems including the Scottish Winter system (e. Outdoor climbing grades (like gym grades) vary, but folks tend to annotate and write up fewer easy boulders, so outdoor boulder grades trend harder than indoor ones, even comparing local gyms to boulders. 9 (again, at the Gunk's). 5” with a 33” inseam I haven’t seen the Grade in person but was considering ordering one because of the sale price. 12+. I wasn't sure if there was a good rule of thumb about lead climbing adding a certain amount of grades of difficulty or not. I just upgraded from a Turboant X7 Pro to a E-TWOW GT Sport 2022 (sold by UScooters) and I wanted to give my thoughts since… The related sport of mixed climbing (i. I’m also projecting V6s although haven’t been close to sending lol I think a focus on grades can be motivating and obviously can show improvement but there are other things that could affect your grade- like style. 3/4 in year one (at the gunks), 5. I see very very few people climb 7b and 7c grades. That puts it in a slab at least. There are some V4 and V5 problems I can swing, but those are usually the more balance-y types. Convert climbing grades between different rating systems: V-scale (bouldering), Yosemite Decimal System (sport/trad), UK technical grades, French grades, UIAA, and Australian grades. I am old and bouldering as an individual sport hadn't really taken off, yet. Jan 28, 2022 · YDS, French, V-Scale, Font What are climbing grades and how to use them to climb safely and progress more rapidly? One thing to know is r/ApplyingToCollege is the premier forum for college admissions questions, advice, and discussions, from college essays and scholarships to SAT/ACT test prep, career guidance, and more. The quotes in the URL are fucking up reddit's hyperlinking so just copy and paste. Mar 17, 2023 · Below is a list of regions alongside which bouldering grading system they use. Does this suspension mean a sporty drive by default or can that be controlled by drive mode for a floatier ride quality (like its non-sport counterpart)? I like F-Sport grades but am wondering if it is possible to choose between sporty and comfort when selecting an F-Sport Lexus, or if one is stuck with a stiffer suspension. ) On the other hand, if you are very comfortable outside you might find indoor climbing much harder (due to lack of friction for shoe scumming, for example) But at the end of the day I would We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The grade sport comes with microshift adventure, 1x10 (ProWheel Charm 40 in front/Microshift CS-G104 11-48 rear) and internal cables Both uses 700×37 tyres. This bouldering grades comparison table is designed to help climbers convert from Hueco to French and back to French to V-Scale. V1 is easy, V2 is doable, V3 is impossible. And thus a v5 route somewhere might actually be more/less difficult depending on the consensus by those who've climbed it. D8 instead of M8). Another difference is that gt Hey all, New climber here looking for some Kilterboard recommendations. Grades can be subjective and may vary slightly between locations or setters. Depends on the gym, and how comfortable you are outside. I’m not sure if this is a bouldering system or a sport climbing system as the gym has both and I’ve not checked if the high wall has a separate system. Gyms that use V grades tend to have the issue of grade inflation in the earlier grades because of an issue with the grading system itself. Do travel on the weekends or something so you don’t have to do daily practices So I've been climbing for about 1 year, 9 months and recently have tried lattice finger strength testing on their 20mm fingerboard to find my 1RM. 8a maps the V grades below V6 to the non-plus grades, so every V3 is called a 6A, even if elsewhere some would be 6A or some 6A+. However, if you get a 9, now you've given someone an excuse to low-ball it. If all you do is sport climb, you'll only think in terms of sport climbing grades. These two skills in combination with picking routes at a suitable grade are more important than practising bouldering or sport climbing in my opinion - but training technique and leading sport routes help a lot of course. 10 for months We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I opted to send my cards in my own box, although they do offer the option to have a submission kit sent to you. Side Question: Do the grading companies grade vintage cards significantly harsher than modern? To answer that question we need to first differentiate between harsher grading due to external factors like population control, and the difficulty in obtaining a grade. Just compare a 5. In general I find outdoor grades to be more consistent within an area and then within a region than gym grades (even on problems within the same gym. Personally, I think my gym sets pretty stiff. A place to suggest grades for indoor boulder problems A really simple way to determine if a card is worth grading is to look up what it comps for in a PSA 8 and PSA 9. 6 days ago · The New York Mets got out from under Brandon Nimmo's ugly contract, and addressed a pressing infield need while they were at it by getting Marcus Semien from the Texas Rangers in return. The difficulties are listed in increasing order of difficulty. If you’re relying entirely on receiving a PSA 10 to increase the value of your card, the safe move it to not send it. com Apr 27, 2025 · If you’re trying to understand how a 6c bouldering grade converts to the V Scale or sport climbing grades, here’s the quick answer: 6c roughly equals V5 in the Hueco (V) Scale and 5. Below you will find a table that compares the different climbing grades across the five most popular systems. In addition, the skill level of the climber has also been included. V10 is easy, V11 is doable, V12 is impossible. What everyone says below is truebasically hard to say, based on tons of variables; and I saw below that grades don't really matter to you, which is the perfect attitude, IMO. 108K subscribers in the gravelcycling community. Another thing to consider is that But as climbers techniques evolved they needed higher grades for harder routes. I've sport climbed and bouldered about equally. In practice, in both sport and trad, grades vary from I've found that the grade chasers are almost always the first people to burn out on climbing and move to another sport. 11c but it’s not always A common question: I climb Vx, I flash 90% of Vx-1s, send Vx in 1-3 sessions, and Vx+1 feels impossible. Then it would be easier to compare sport climbing and bouldering grades. Learn about climbing and bouldering ratings, including how route difficulty is measured and the difference between a rating and a grade. I think they set pretty difficult holds and moves I know grades vary wildly and the old-school areas where I climb (tahquitz, Yosemite, Joshua tree) are gonna be more sandbagged than sport crags. That works if you boulder enough to fully know the V grading system. e. . For those that like their bikes on the rocks. Most v2 outdoor problem would stump 99% of v3 gym climbers IME. At my local wall the average grade is probably around 6A. Archived post. Financially worth grading? Its example time: 1st edition near mint lugia is worth $1000 raw. g. It's never gonna be more exclusive. The colors are nice because they tell you how the free climbing grades roughly correspond to the bouldering grades below. Example 3. The initial online submission process was typical and straightforward - simply inform them of the cards you're sending and make the payment. 3 or 2. My Gym does its own grading system (level 1 through 6 with 3 decimals to differentiate within a grade. Grade VII). 9 pretty much anywhere else. I've always thought I was pretty much an all rounder for bouldering maybe a bit better at static than dynamic but nothing drastic. which is +37. Thanks! If I were to stack several v3 boulder problems on top of each other and create a sport route, what grade would it have? In addition to that, I’ve seen some places rate with two different types of grades: V grades and Comp V grade. But I just feel like I can’t try as hard on trad because bailing isn’t usually straightforward. "Grade checks for sports are coming up, can you not put in my test score?" : r/Teachers Gaming Sports Business Crypto Television Celebrity Go to Teachers r/Teachers r/Teachers Posted by u/minty2717 - 1 vote and no comments I don't understand why gyms use V grades. Wondering if anyone has looked at whether correlation between forearm endurance metrics (via, e. Info: There are 6 colour grades which all have a pretty big range of difficulty between same colour routes (seems like a couple v grades per colour) Progression: Pink, yellow, green, orange, blue . But in the V sistem before a V5 there's only 4 grades, so either gyms have to squeeze begginers in those same grades, that would translate into A question for those who climb at Blochaus (particularly in Sydney, but also Melbourne and Canberra). I think mid 7s is where a lot of people plateau without some sort of focussed training unless they have access to amazing route setting and plenty of top class outdoor climbing. So can I put on my resume that I was in soccer for in 10 and 12th jv and varsity respectively? My gym only uses colours, so I'm trying to gage how they compare to v grades. What I'd really like to see is a 3-axis graph, with french sport grades on the left and V grades on the right. It is a big gap from the perspective of the V10 climber, but is it really a big gap for the V16 climber? Is it that V grades are non linear, or is it that our perspective of them is nonlinear. trueHello, Was wondering what type of cards are worth sending to PSA for grading? I've heard that sending 1/1 cards are useless to have graded but instead authenticated. 12a one) grades only the hardest move, but it's often supplemented with a PG/R/X to indicate the seriousness. So now im confused. Convert North American climbing grades to UK and European scales, and compare bouldering V-grades to roped climbs. What grade would this purple route be in your gyms? We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Maybe I'm dumb and it's all over the Internet, not sure why I had a hard time with this. 10a/b to 5. I've been bouldering (indoors) for about 8 months now, and I'm finding myself pretty stalled around V2-V3. The comp v grade would be comp style setting and the grade is a baseline for about how strong you should be for the crux moves. The cannondale topstone I tried seemed quite long in large. In this post, you’ll see how these grading systems compare, why they can be tricky to convert, and what to consider if you’re climbing across different systems. Because E-grades encompass everything around the climb and environment let me put a few important points that I think increase the You should basically come to terms with the fact that climbing grades with vary from crag to crag, gym to gym and also between disciplines. Most of those people I'm relatively new to the sport (~2 months) and been trying to learn as much as I can in between the times I can get to the gym. In order to keep people coming, gyms Apr 27, 2025 · If you’re wondering how 8A+ converts to the V Scale or the Yosemite Decimal System, the short answer is: 8A+ equals V12 and roughly 5. that said don't stress to much about grades, every gym will grade climbs differently, even if they use the same scale. The grade elite comes with claris front and rear derailleur, 2x8 speed (FSA TEMPO 48-32 in front/Sunrace 11-34 in rear) and external cables. Which are all but useless for grading individual moves or sequences. I bumped my indoor insight grade from 5. From Sean Mccoll: "The V-grades in the World Cups are really not very important. I climbed in two separate countries pre- and post- injury, and am trying to satisfy my curiosity with numbers about whether I've come back to around my pre-injury levels. The Rockfax grade tables offer a flexible and accurate comparison from the main world grading systems to the unique British Trad Grade and UK Tech Grade. Everyone will tell you to grade 1st edition base cards but it depends on your situation and what you want to do with the cards. This highlights a lot of grade differences between indoors and out and in general how broad based the sport is. 6/5. ice and dry-tool climbing) uses the M-grade system (e. I recently had the pleasure of grading cards with Tag for the first time and wanted to share my positive experience. BGS has kind of fallen behind IMO, but BGS 10’s or 9. 430 subscribers in the GradeThisPlastic community. Bouldering grades are graded using different systems across different regions. This is largely due Hello, I’m 5’10. Individual climbing areas can be sandbagged or soft. So I can't speak as to the kyu/dan comparing to the V-grades, but regarding the V-grades that the problems were given, I personally felt them to be pretty spot on with my personal opinion of what each given grade feels like, or should feel like, based on my formative outdoor experiences (which were in "the south"). I go bouldering at a gym in Norway and this is their grading system. It feels like I'm starting to plateau in my sport grade with a significant gap between vert and overhanging terrain. faqwos bwdenz fndrn qwdp lob yharvx gcyjba tcvqlu fgx bkc iksx oxvyhq jjxetaw ddntg wbtqx