Slab climbing injuries reddit. (Great resource for climbing specific injury advice.
Slab climbing injuries reddit So, what's your favorite routine? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A bearbreeder • Slab, babiii, slab ;) Reply reply OlDikDik • And consider taking up rope climbing if your injury averse. Hey all, newer climber here. I’ve read through a lot of it, but am looking for novel opinions and advice. Wake up in the wee hours of the morning and my knee is killing Jun 11, 2024 路 Unlock the secrets to slab climbing with these tips from Rock Spot including keeping your heels down and edging with climbing shoes. Of course the power and strength can still improve your lower angle abilities, but why aren't there boards at vertical/slab angles to be able to train that style in the same way? Is there practical reasons or Generally nagging injuries that get worse, I can't remember a time I've climbed where I didn't have at least some slight pain. 337 votes, 50 comments. It´s common for me to climb/train 6 times per week. says and hope that in a year or so (depending on injury) things improve and you can consider working towards climbing more. I prefer aggressive shoes even on face or slab climbing, but it's way more of a comfort preference. I’ve been climbing for 6 months and climb about twice a week plus one gym session (strength training) per week. He saw a surgeon and was advised to have surgery but opted for P/T instead. Slab walls - especially the tall boulder gym walls popular these days - are far more likely to result in foot, ankle and leg injuries. My main takeaway from my years of climbing and dealing with injuries is that resting and hoping for your fingers to heal doesn't work. Still dont have a solution to this one. You are much more likely to get a lower leg injury from taking a weird fall when bouldering. Fifteen years of climbing, more runout trad climbs than I can count, and my first serious injury was toproping in the gym. He claims that slab climbing is a sure-fire way to improve climbing technique (greater awareness of body position, balance etc). First off, I know there is a lot of literature on finger injuries related to climbing. Year 3: pulled muscle/tendon in forearm Started hangboarding to strengthen fingers and feel confident on holds. 10c with only little pain (2-3 on a scale from 1-10) around the injured area. 1-2 hours per session with adequate rest between climbs twice or three times per week with rest days between is optimal. However recently, after several days of slab climbing & aggressive rockovers, I ended up having some troubles again. Especially just to Hangboarding and keeping climbing volume in check. ) drjuliansaunders Related Topics Climbing Sports comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment There are a myriad of upper extremity injuries that we can discuss, but we are going to focus on one shoulder injury here—the SLAP tear. Injuries heal but after blowing out your ankle ligaments falling from a slab, you would probably feel differently. Get off work early Saturday night and super psyched to have a chance to hit the gym before it closes. And people say slab is fun 馃ゲ Indoor Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A roguebaconstrip • Oh, hm. It's not very representative of the type of slab climbing around me and the injury potential is real. I'm wondering how some of you guys went about getting a proper diagnosis, assessing bad climbing habits that may have caused it, and rehablitaing the injury. Just started going to a bouldering gym. Granted he was climbing a horrific slab and practically bounced the entire way down, so it was more like a bunch of 10ft falls combined. I do decently on a variety of climbing styles (slab, crack, overhanging, slopers, roofs, etc. The best way to prevent injury is not overdoing climbing volume and doing enough strength exercises in contrast to your climbing. It’s possible that inefficient climbing movement or a muscle imbalance could be setting you up for a future injury. I’m wondering more about how shape of the shoe affects your climbing technique- what toe shape is better for smearing vs edging vs toe hook. I find that I'm climbing a couple grades lower on slab problems compared to overhanging ones. Last week I was training two finger pockets (middle and ring finger) on the hang board. Knuckles, elbows, shins, knees, sure. He has made a full recovery and has no lack of range of motion or lasting complications from the injury. Certain styles of climbing, namely slab, are a great way to improve stability, as these climbs often emphasize balance. I've been in physical therapy for the past 3 What grip positions are safer for lumbricals while I do some very light slab/technique style climbing, and what aren't? Any recommendations on how to not strain it during climbing and what should I do in the future to keep it more injury free? In the current era of training for climbing, finger strength is all the rage. One gym had a 50% reduction in injuries by using these methods, but more tips are very welcome! : r/bouldering TOPICS Gaming Sports Business Crypto Television Celebrity POPULAR POSTS Go to bouldering r/bouldering r/bouldering Anyone recommend any good climbing podcasts in regards to training/injuries or maybe just climbing in general/talking with pros? I’m looking for something to listen to whilst running! The solution is still my favorite sport climbing shoe that I have tried, precise and makes me feel confident on even the smallest feet. Not going by any set routine or anything; just hanging for 7-10 seconds with minutes of rest in between. Sep 16, 2021 路 Climb easier routes with foot holds outside the crack or work on your sport climbing game for a while. His got pretty progressed and he couldn't climb at all. I make sure to take breaks between routes, I don't climb every day, and I do rice bucket exercises and tendon glides at home. Get your hips into the wall and rely on your feet. As you progress through your ankle program, be sure to incorporate climbing throughout as an evaluation of your ankle status. trueThe best thing you can do at this stage is make time to climb more. : r/climbing Scan this QR code to download the app now Home Popular TOPICS Gaming Sports Business Crypto Television Celebrity Copy link Go to climbing r/climbing r Reddit's rock climbing training community. Naturally, right as I was about to top out, the rock I was holding onto came loose and I fell, missing my pad. My girlfriend and I were climbing on Martian Slab on Sunday, Sept 18th. ) but frequently get shut down on moves that require hard finger pulling (pockets, crimps w/ bad feet, wide or overhung pinches). Injury free. It often requires lots of careful balancing, and precise movements, often on a wall that slopes slightly away from you. In rock climbing we know slab and ledgy falls are way more likely to result in you getting flipped and/or catching your ankles, well unless you're a real hotshot most ice is undervertical and ledgy PLUS you have crampons to snag on the ice and axes waving around. I think it's cause on overhangs I'm usually falling straight down onto the mat, whereas in slab climbs I'm scared a foot will slip unexpectedly and I'll hit every hold and volume on the way down. The next few days, I noticed One of my climbing buddies took a 300ft fall, and walked away. Also surprisingly durable for a high performance shoe, lasted 8 months before I resoled them could have probably pushed it another month or 2. Watch technique videos like Neil Gresham's masterclasses on Youtube (link in the 1K votes, 59 comments. This past season I got my first v12 and really the major thing I did is rest more. Knee’s hyperextended. In my 20+ years of climbing, I have never smashed my face against the wall. My right arm was fully extended to a small pinch, and my right foot was balancing on a micro jib. A compression injury or, 2. Make liberal use of pads, spotters, downclimbing, and learn how to fall properly. I type this in week 6 out of at least 10 of recovering from a climbing related TFCC injury so take it for what it's worth, but I think the advice is good but misinterpreted. Yeah grade 20 is pretty easy ( in terms of her limit) and 12 months is very inexperienced to be climbing a massive old school poorly protected run out slab. So i guess my mind is comparing that type of soft tissue injury with this one. Year 2: started felling neck and shoulder pains, especially with desk job. I’m able to climb V4-V6 on slab without too much difficulty, but can do V2-V4 overhang using quite a bit of effort You have much higher injury risk. I shake it off and keep going no issues, nothing out of the ordinary. You’re more likely to fall from sudden, unexpected slips where the friction gives way. I could climb vertical routes, dihedrals and slabs up to 5. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Reply reply BigBoulderingBalls • How much time does a mild finger tendon injury need to heal while “at rest”? Can low-grade climbing help encourage my finger to heal faster? What back or pull exercises can I do instead of pull-ups/toes-to-bar to continue strength training for climbing? Can finger rolls be beneficial with a hurt finger or do I risk injuring further? I avoid the slab wall. If you're doing climbing for fitness, climbing is extremely taxing on small muscles that don't burn very many calories, and relatively easy on large muscle groups compared to other activities. if this route is really shabby you be able to get you vent over your feet really solidly. Hard heel/toe hooks and rock overs can really mess you up if they are at your limit. Climbing has literally never been painfree for me. Should you wait for the soreness to be over to climb Jun 5, 2023 路 A thin cut across the sensitive fingertip can be one of the most painful climbing injuries, and dry air, chalk, and excessive climbing all contribute to split tips. Eight weeks post-injury:, I tried some indoor lead climbing. I listened to the Esther Smith episode of the Training Beta podcast about finger injuries today and have been taking notes on that. Fully dedicated to the most injury intensive discipline (bouldering) for the past 13 years. Yes there are ways to prevent injury bouldering, and top roping is not risk-free, but I can’t wait to get back to climbing, and will likely not be bouldering any time soon. I stick to developing my slab technique outside. 1. This injury occurs when downward force is applied to an ankle in an inverted position, with the big toe side of the foot up, and the little toe side down. . Thanks Ankle sprains are the most common injury in the lower leg. Looking for some tips on how to feel safer when climbing on slab. The only injuries I sustained (we won't mention the phone replacement, but that certainly injured my wallet) were a few scrapes and scratches. That was my first fall on gear and my longest (also my most expensive). A subsection of slab is friction slab, which sounds like what you are talking about (again just my vocab for it). Hey everyone, this is my first time on a Reddit page as I am desperate to seek advice for a shoulder injury that has kept me out of climbing for the past 7 months. On the right side (my first injury), there was also a distinct feeling of instability & vulnerability in my shoulder with my arm raised above my head. I love climbing, but if I were obese I absolutely wouldn't see the risk/reward being there. You’re engaging different muscles and using different techniques which ultimately can put off a climber who finds overhang climbing fun. Well both were acute injuries (L side: slab climbing fall, R side: bicycle crash) so my very first sx were like numbness/tingling down my arm, and pain with flexion/abduction. (Example: i avoid some gastons due to repeated shoulder injuries) There's no sense in avoiding climbing as a whole though Hopefully you can find a solution that works for you. My biggest concern is to avoid overuse injury, as my forearms muscles/tendons are currently sore for a good 4 days after a session. And yes we are scared of falling. I did 8 weeks wrist brace, 8 weeks wrist widget full time, then 8 weeks normal with no climbing. Did yours hurt pretty bad, say a week later or did pain mostly only With things like this I always think it is best to do what the dr. I can’t seem to find any articles breaking down the physics of shoes other than “downturned toe does hooks, flat shoe do slabs”. One major drawback for training boards that I see is that the training only really applies to steep climbing. Another reason why climbers hate slab climbing is related to the fact that slab climbing is completely different to overhang climbing. But that might just be me idk. 21 votes, 26 comments. 2 days ago 路 Discover what is a slab in rock climbing and learn how this unique technique challenges your balance and precision on less-than-vertical rock faces. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. it's also super easy to reinjure, so be careful when you start climbing again. Hardest slab is really hard, like this 14d. I've banged and bumped all of those up, but never my face. I think I was back on the wall two weeks after my initial injury as a means of recovery. The pain went away a few minutes after the climb completely each time, which was okay my doc told me. Slab for technique? Hi everyone, I’d like some of your opinions regarding a discussion I’ve been having with my climbing partner. I was off climbing for maybe 2 months, and then another month to get up to full strength. Rope climbing especially top rope is probably the safest form of climbing seeing as your not hitting the ground, there is still a chance of injury, but if you have a good partner the risks are exceptionally low. Climbing involves a lot of complex movements that aren't easily trained with isolation exercises. Agreed. I was never diagnosed with a specific injury but my doctor suggested it was either bursitis or tendonitis from repetitive use. I’ve noticed that my main limitation has been bicep soreness, both as it arises over the course of a session and how I still feel sore climbing two days or less after another climbing/gym session. I have been climbing for 5 years but only two years consistently I can climb at a v6 level on slab but only around a v4 on any other discipline. I usually start climbing with slab, vertical routes, or traversing, something not upper body intensive. Sep 21, 2016 路 Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. you might be aware of your center but you’re not applying that awareness effectively. Massage, better posture, good sleep help. Climbing Injury in Peshastin Pinnacles I wanted to write a quick post here about an accident that recently happened near Leavenworth, WA, in the Peshastin Pinnacles State Park. Reply reply More replies perpetualwordmachine • I'm fairly certain I strained my pulleys. Currently rehabbing two minor pulley injuries and fully cleared by physio to keep climbing so long as they are taped for support and no full crimping. I was wondering how many times per week to target. I haven't seen a lot of injuries at my gym but over half have been on the slab wall including my own mildly sprained knee. not sure how hard that gets but this v13 looks pretty much just friction, although video quality sucks Reddit's rock climbing training community. After injuries I take time off and then come back slowly, but inevitably within a couple months the finger injuries are back to the dangerously nagging stage. It also serves as a less intimidating way for new climbers to ask questions without worrying how it comes across. A comment about the "drop the heels" rule: it works for friction slab or smedgy footholds, but if you're climbing "steep" slab (closer to vertical), this won't work as well because you're relying more on edging than pure friction. De Quervain’s is typically caused by overuse or an increase in repetitive activity, characterized by pain and tenderness at the base of the thumb. Within this region lies two tendons: the extensor pollicis brevis (EPB) and abductor pollicis longus (APL). Very diligent about warming up, strength training and antagonistic work. I like it because I have adhd and usually a very loud and "busy" brain, climbing slab forces you to slow down, breath and be calm. trueIs there a trend to the circumstances causing your injuries? Perhaps slipping off heel hooks? Or falling from slabs? I would see if there is a trend and only avoid that one thing if possible. worst injury ever. I tore my ACL and MCL bouldering in November - an injury that unequivocally would not have happened if I had been top roping. I've been slowly working back up to it and took a big fall (17 feet) today on a scary slab. Haha, yeah, just trying to put my mind at ease until I see someone in PT / at the doctors office next week. Route finding on old school run out climbs is a skill in itself. I have been doing some one handed slab climbing but am refraining from using the wrist to climb. All while bouldering. I find it very therapeutic and a much better experience than big burly muscley climbs. Slab is a style of climbing, not a type of hold. This time I literally run to the doc, as I was scared that the ligament might have been damaged: the knee was swollen, and sort of blocked for several days after a bouldering session. Things like safely doing fall practice, knowing when you can and can;t mess it up, trusting trad gear, slab climbing etc. A SLAP tear is an injury in which the top of the cartilaginous ring surrounding your shoulder joint is torn. I experienced a really bad ankle tear a few years ago slab climbing in the South Platte. I really don't trust my feet. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Wondering if I’m being a fool and would be better off getting on the slab and vert walls more or should I just not worry and climb what gets me excited? 33 year old guy, climbing for a year. Really aggressive gastons, or high underclings still feel tweaky 5 months after injury, but otherwise I'm climbing harder than before. My mane goal of the training would be to increase strength and power and finger strength. Inflammation was crazy intense for like a month. 1 The most common mechanism of injury to the TFCC for climbers is either 1. started light climbing with wrist widget (v0-4), slowly I have avoided slab for a long time since spraining my ankle on it last January. Aug 27, 2024 路 Discover expert tips and techniques to master slab climbing, one of the most challenging yet rewarding styles in the climbing gym. A quick Google search will turn up no less than a dozen hangboarding protocols, with countless Reddit threads discussing each of them ad nauseam. Reply reply Anthropocentrism • I prescribe slab climbing Reply reply professional-loser69 • Because your adaptation is for your upper body, you will eventually (probably) gravitate towards slab climbing which is almost always a more foot-centric type of moves than powerful upper body overhangs. This is There have been a lot of posts related to injuries recently. 27 votes, 18 comments. Halfway through the session I bop my knee on a hold on the slab wall. I love slab. This fibrocartilage complex is an important stabilizer of the wrist but can often become injured through overuse, from a fall onto an outstretch hand, or through degeneration with age (generally >50 years old). Most “shoe advice” focuses on aggressive vs non aggressive and fit. For those of you who know anything about medical terms, my specific injuries were a transscaphoid perilunate fracture and dislocation, a terrible triad of the elbow, and a median nerve This "Injury Gospel" will help you prevent pesky injuries and heal them faster. I would climb about 2/3 days a week often times taking 2 days minimum between climbing days to be completely fresh to tackle my outdoor projects. This site offers a lot of sound information on climbing related injuries, it might be a good idea to check here first. The home of Climbing on reddit. It’s “weather” if you count all of mountaineering, slip-and-falls in rock climbing specifically, and you can’t even count rappelling as “while climbing” because it’s not while climbing. One of those 'hit your funny bone' awkward pain/numbness injuries which quickly subsides. Steeper climbs may be less painful than slab routes with delicate footwork and lots of sustained plantar flexion. There is no 'exercises to prevent injuries' as a specific magic bullet. Already had climbed a few time occasionally, but now I bought my first pair of shoes and plan on going more regularly. Finger injuries are one of the most common climbing injuries and finger strength (in relationship to your body weight) is one of the most important indicators of climbing performance in advanced climbers. On a slab you risk most of your body, especially if there are volumes or features on the slab. You need active recovery, keep your fingers engaged with lighter exercises, and build up from there. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. I'm just curious why there aren't really training boards for slab climbing. My biggest climbing injuries so far have been a ruptured ankle tendon and a tweaked LCL. When I started climbing, my limiting factor was forearm pump, but within a few In my climbing vocabulary slab is anything less than vertical, regardless of hold type. (I think I got it doing a gaston move on a slab wall). I know bouldering and climbing come with risks but I wondered how likely injury is and - I respect this isn’t scientific - if any regular climbers can share their perspectives and experience of injury? Someone else cited it in this thread somewhere. Reddit's rock climbing training community. An extension injury 3 Compression injuries may result from falling on a hand when Recently new to consistent climbing, but I’ve found progressing on slab has been way easier than progressing on overhang. As long as your climbing days have a goal or purpose taking a few days between climbing should keep you fresh to improve. The you’re probably not climbing it like a slab. I have cartoonishly long legs so it doesn’t help but not training my leg joints to be more stable is one of my greatest regrets climbing-wise. I've been recovering from two doctor-diagnosed pulley strains for a month-- A3 on one Two months ago, I was being an dumbass bouldering 20 feet up with one crash pad at a trad crag. I've seen a some discussion on here about how having warmed up fingers and climbing seems to either negate or just mask the pain of a finger injury, and the general consensus seems to be that climbing is okay (and even beneficial to rehab) as long as you don't start to feel significant pain while climbing. Depends a lot on the nature and degree of the injury. you'll probably never be 100%, but you might get close with a lot of rehab and strength training. Quick intro: I am 44 years old based, in Brazil, been climbing for more than half of my life. So you hear about climbing injuries all the time since they're fairly common, but as somebody who is a newer climber, I'm curious to know what you did to cause your own injuries? I'm trying to write a workout routine that doesn't require hard climbing, but will still maintain my strength and improve overall fitness. Bouldering gym owners: I'm collecting best practises for gyms to prevent injuries. Aug 15, 2022 路 The 2,000-foot Snake Dike is a well-known but extremely run-out moderate slab route, and pitches often feature 40 to 50 feet of climbing between bolts, with scant placements for pro. I can start: Year 1: scraped leg on a slab Got pants and improved foot technique. See a physio with experience with climbing injuries if you can, they'll be able to direct you best for rehab and climbing specific exercises. will often make the difference between two climbers of equal strength My brother suffered the same injury from excess slab climbing. (Great resource for climbing specific injury advice. This is a thread for simple, or common training questions that don't merit their own individual threads as well as a place to ask Injury related questions. But still. Not all injuries are the same but I hope you’re back to climbing soon! Injuries suck! Edit: I would like to add that my Airrosti provider encouraged me to keep climbing (very mildly) after a certain amount of treatment to gauge how I was healing. Also should mention that I hurt the wrist initially in late September. Reply reply bobombpom • 2 years out from my tfcc tear, it sucks. Yeah it was on slab that I had 'trouble' with some holds and smearing due to the profile. 490 votes, 96 comments. Slab walls are generally more dangerous as you're not necessarily falling onto mats straight down - so be prepared to push yourself away from the wall when you fall. Thoughts, experiences, tips etc greatly appreciated. kiobjlzpjyltsvjrqfkrxtepzyktumbkflzuscfafqbicslqxokjzmwqcdhputvszjlkwymgvjcxbhgr