Alpinesavvy quad anchor. The quad anchor is popular for a lot of reasons.

Alpinesavvy quad anchor. =^) 1,415 likes, 44 comments - alpinesavvy on March 31, 2023: "The "double top rope” quad anchor . Tying it with a long dyneema runner makes it even Dec 14, 2023 · Quad anchor - 240 cm sling with bowline on a bight - READ CAPTION ⤵️ . Jun 7, 2024 · The quad anchor rig offers fast set up, great strength, good load distribution and complete redundancy, all in a light, compact package. But depending on the stance, the leader’s clove hitch tie in point on the left and the belay carabiner on the right might be annoyingly close together. Dec 5, 2020 · The German Mountain and Ski Guides Association (VDBS) published a short PDF file of recommended anchor building practices. Oct 29, 2023 · ok, i know this topic has been done to death but i just need simple answers. This partially secures you while you build the rest of the anchor. Most of the time, that's probably cool, but for instructional settings or your own peace of mind, you can go one step further and use lockers on everything. What's a good length? . The primary reasons to use this: Prevent the belayer from being violently yanked into the air, slammed against the rock, and potentially being injured or even losing control of the belay Reduces the force on lead protection due to rope slippage Allows a greater chance of actually holding a factor 2 fall. Complacency plays a role in many accidents, and this incident might be no exception. Note, if you’re using a pre-rigged or stacked rappel, you only need one anchor for descending. alpinesavvy • Original audio 2,735 likes, 111 comments - alpinesavvy on July 27, 2023: "3 lengths of quad slings . com) 1 ReplyLast reply 1 Alpine Savvy on Instagram: "Start your anchor with a quickdraw . The quad anchor is popular for a lot of reasons. Jun 2, 2024 · So, what exactly is an extended rappel? Simply put, rather than attaching your rappel device directly to your belay loop in the standard manner, you add some sort of runner / carabiner combination to “extend” it farther away from your body. Explore guides, tips, and gear insights to improve safety and efficiency. Jul 27, 2023 · 3 lengths of quad slings . However, with solid bolts or ice screws, it may be faster and more convenient to build what’s called a series anchor, where all the load goes to one component and the other is a backup. This gives you two clipping points at two different levels, which can be helpful in certain situations. “fixing” the rope, can be handy in certain climbing situations. Example: Standard anchor on a mini quad (180 cm runner). What’s cool about the quad? Good load distribution Minimal extension Fully redundant Quick to set up and break down, no knots to untie Super strong (would you believe 40 kN?!) Bonus, two independent and load distributed master points Aug 4, 2021 · The quad anchor is a popular choice, but usually requires a 180 cm doubled sling or bulky cordelette. Want to use ONE anchor to set up top ropes on TWO adjacent routes? The quad is a slick way to do it. Climbing Tips: Do This, Not That (Part 2) — Alpinesavvy A series of quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. Here is a clever way to rig it so your master point is high, and it's very easy to untie after loading: tie it with a bowline on a bight. Do you see a sling, a quad, a cordelette, or any attempt at equalization? Nope! Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. It's compact, super strong, offers good equalization and redundancy, and has lots of different clipping points. Learn multiple ways to rig it, and the pros and cons of each. Apr 25, 2023 · Start your anchor with a quickdraw . The standard version (with four same-length loops below the knots) works fine most of the time. But what if you need to use a cordelette on a two bolt anchor? 3,646 likes, 53 comments - alpinesavvy on August 13, 2021: "Quad anchor with two 120 cm slings . Here's a side-by-side comparison of three Nov 27, 2018 · An anchor kit (at a minimum 4-5 locking carabiners, possibly a mini quad or PAS to make an equalized hauling anchor) The hauling kit, either a 1:1 or 2:1, typically a locking carabiner, progress capturing pulley, and an ascender, for a bare-bones 1:1 Learn how to set up a quad anchor with just a pair of 120 cm slings, a great alternative when you don't have a 180 cm doubled sling or bulky cordelette. Pre-rigging is covered in depth here. You also get to bend the normal anchor building rules a bit. Aug 21, 2025 · 489 likes, 17 comments - alpinesavvy on August 21, 2025: "Quad anchor - keep the knots low . Mar 9, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. What are they? The quad anchor, first mentioned (I think) around 2006 by John Long in his book “ Climbing Anchors ”, was an attempt to have the Holy Grail in anchors. This post covers: anchor shelf on a tree, “casting” (not throwing) a rappel rope, block leading tip, proper tails on flat overhand knots, and a caution on girth hitched rappel rings. If you have a 240 cm sling, it can be annoyingly long to use on a two bolt anchor, especially rigged as a quad. You arrive at a bolted anchor on a multi pitch route with a small stance. Perfect for alpine climbing adventures. We dive into the key principles of anchoring for rock climbing, and debunk some of the myths and focuses that some climbers cling to without understand the true reality of climbing anchors. Want to top rope on two adjacent routes that share a common anchor? Here's a slick way to rig it with a quad anchor. Nov 5, 2021 · A 120 cm sling or mini quad anchor is usually a good choice for two bolt anchor, while a cordelette is typically better for distributing load to 3+ pieces of gear. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em. Aug 17, 2024 · Here's a fast and simple method to build an anchor using the rope, typically on two good bolts. Feb 20, 2020 · Below: Quad anchor tied with overhand knots in Dyneema webbing (photo and anchor by Dale Remsberg, a n IFMGA Certified Guide and Technical Director of the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA). and a few problems. Nothing wrong with this set up. For the complete article: 1) See link in Bio" All images credit: Chris Semmel / VDBS . Learn all about it here. A 120 cm sling or mini quad anchor is usually a good choice for two bolt anchor, while a cordelette is typically better for distributing load to 3+ pieces of gear. ) Premium Art Jul 7, 2023 · The “backside clove hitch” offers several options for efficient transitions from climbing to descending. It can be better than other methods of equalizing in certain situations. There are some standards, but which one you pick might depend on what kind of climbing you’re mostly doing. Feb 21, 2020 · The anchor example below is from Dale Remsberg, a n IFMGA Certified Guide and Technical Director of the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA). (If you climb a lot on snow and rock, you might want to get one for each. This will give perfect equalization, but minimizes extension if one arm of the anchor fails. However, there may be some situations where having clipping points at two different levels can be helpful. Learn some ways to set this up with slings and the rope, on horizontal and vertical bolts. Dec 14, 2023 · Quad anchor - 240 cm sling with bowline on a bight - READ CAPTION ⤵️ . Maybe a decade ago, the extended rappel was regarded by many as a sort of a fringe Euro rope trick. This post is part of a new section on my website called “Do This, Not That”. You Dec 4, 2023 · The T slot (aka deadman) anchor is usually a good choice when building a crevasse rescue anchor in snow. Jun 30, 2023 · Climbing anchors, whether in trad or sport scenarios, are life or death. After both partners are pre-rigged, unclip the quad and send it down with the first person. Feb 7, 2023 · Stay sharp and practice your anchor skills! If you have a simple training board like this, you can rig up just about anything you can imagine: top rope anchors, rappel transitions, multipitch, and more. Tying it with a long dyneema runner makes it even better. Apr 7, 2021 · The quad anchor, typically tied with a 180 cm Dyneema sling, is an increasingly popular choice for bolted anchors or ice climbing. my question is should i get cordelette or a dyneema sling? i’ve Alpine Savvy on Instagram: "Quad anchor with two 120 cm slings . The “quad” anchor rig doesn’t have to be tied with a humongo cordelette. This eliminate any chance of Grigri failure. Rappeler #2 removes the clove, cleans the blue carabiner, and rappels. If you use a quad, especially if you tie it with a cordelette, it's good practice to keep the knots fairly low down near the master point. Alpine Savvy on Instagram: "Double the cordelette strands for a 2 piece anchor . ) Use an “anchor kit” of several large locking carabiners, and maybe a pre-tied quad anchor or PAS that you and your partner can set up fast and the same way pretty much every time. This minimizes any extension if either half of the anchor were to fail. While you can tie it with a cordelette, many people prefer to use a sewn sling. Dec 17, 2018 · Me, I like 2 bolts. Using a cordelette to equalize an anchor is easy and strong, but it takes a lot of extra time to set up, and even longer to break down. With this offset, it gives you a perfect place to clip your file plate on the lower loop, and the redirect carabiner on the upper loop. Cost is about $5 in materials, and five minutes of your time with basic hand tools. Learn how to clean a sport anchor with these key principles. But, it usually requires a 180 cm Apr 16, 2023 · Method 1: Sequence for multi pitch anchor What you need: One quickdraw Pre-tied quad, racked on one snapgate carabiner One locking carabiner Procedure: Arrive at two bolt anchor. If you want to build an anchor using the rope, this is about as simple as it gets. (Alex says it's his favorite, so that's what I'm calling it. What’s cool about the quad? Jun 10, 2025 · You can make a solid 3 piece anchor with a 120 cm sling, which normally is kind of tricky. Details here: Sep 30, 2025 · Can we improve single pitch “clip and lower” anchors? This anchor ticks all the boxes for low cost, simplicity, security, longevity, and more. ) Premium Article available The quad anchor is a popular choice, but usually requires a 180 cm doubled sling or bulky cordelette. ” . . Oct 12, 2023 · A 120 cm sling or mini quad anchor is usually a good choice for two bolt anchor, while a cordelette is typically better for distributing load to 3+ pieces of gear. Two SOLID bolts. alpinesavvy. com The 'Quad Anchor' is an anchor system which self-adjusts to keep an equal force on each anchor point. While you Mar 15, 2019 · The quad anchor, in the right situation, has some nice points - good load distribution, two independent master points, fast set up, and super strong. What about using Dyneema to tie the popular quad anchor? Might it break at a potentially dangerously low load? . The quad anchor rig offers fast set up, great strength, good load distribution and complete redundancy, all in a light, compact package. Clove hitch your lead rope into the bottom of the quickdraw. Clip the master point carabiner for the Z haul system to the anchor master point (or lone hauling bolt). The standard version, which works fine, has with four loops that are all the same length. Nov 27, 2018 · Move over, old school cordelette-tied-in-one-huge-loop. Here’s a clever Feb 8, 2024 · Belaying the LEADER directly from the anchor is known as a “fixed point” belay. Check it out for complete instructions and step-by-step photos. This post covers: quad anchor tips, pre threading your haul pulley, the twist-free Munter rappel, how to cut webbing, and a caution on ‘open” slings. This is tied like a regular quad, only with a pair of loops at two different heights rather than having them all the same height. The quad anchor Extending your rappel device away from your harness has a host of benefits . a. Here’s a quick enhancement that can double the strength. Double the cordelette strands for a 2 piece anchor . The quad anchor Is a popular choice, but usually requires a 180 cm doubled sling or bulky Nov 17, 2023 · Quad anchor with two 120 cm slings . A good first step can be to clip a quickdraw to a bolt, then clove hitch yourself to the Mar 25, 2019 · Here's another way to rig a redirected plate device - with am offset quad anchor. Sep 30, 2019 · Here's a slick way to use a quad anchor to set up two adjacent top ropes on same set of bolts. What’s cool about the quad? Good load distribution Minimal extension Fully redundant Quick to set up and break down, no knots to untie Super strong (would you believe 40 kN?!) Bonus, two independent and load distributed master points Oct 24, 2018 · Using a cordelette is standard practice for many climbers when building multi-piece gear anchors. This has two main advantages over the standard overhand knot. It's compact, super With a quad anchor, if you’re using a cordelette or longer sewn sling like a 180 cm or 240 cm, it's good practice to tie the knots low down as shown. ) Alpinesavvy (www. Many people seem to have some #GearFear about tying any sort of knot in Dyneema. Feb 27, 2025 · Retreat (aka bail) anchors need to be strong enough for a rappel, use a minimum of gear and cordage, and be simple to rig. It's compact, super strong, offers good equalization and redundancy, and has The quad anchor, typically tied with a 180 cm Dyneema sling, is an increasingly popular choice for bolted anchors or ice climbing. I recall seeing as a diagram in a long-ago Petzl Sep 19, 2018 · A majority of sport climbers are fine with using two standard quickdraws for their anchor. The quad anchor Is a popular option, as it gives good equalization, full redundancy, and convenient dual clipping points. Clip quickdraw to one bolt. Here, a locker draw is added for the leader’s tie in. Clip one arm of your anchor (here a quad) to the top carabiner of the quickdraw. There is a faster, easier, and often equally safe solution: the "alpine anchor. Here are two standard ways to do it: the bunny ears figure 8, and the Y hang. A good first step can be to clip a quickdraw to a bolt, then clove hitch yourself to the draw. This sets up the rope perfectly for the leader to rappel. com/blog/the-quad-anchor . Alpine Savvy on Instagram: "Quad anchor - 240 cm sling with bowline on a bight - READ CAPTION ⤵️ . " Learn about mechanical advantage techniques for climbing and rescue with Alpinesavvy. We cover the most commonly practiced cleaning technique and why avoiding rappelling avoids many climbing accidents. Nov 17, 2023 · Quad anchor with two 120 cm slings . Once you build an anchor, add a second locker (blue) to the master point and tie a second clove hitch on the “backside” of the first one. . Here's one way to use this tool: the second is lowered with an ATC on the anchor and the rope through the anchor hardware. i’m relatively new to outdoor climbing & am wanting to build a quad anchor of my own pretty much just to set up top rope with, and a quad anchor because it’s what i’ve used so far climbing with others so i just understand how to make it the most. See all the details, variations, and cost breakdown here. Jul 3, 2012 · In the mountains or on long rock routes, anchor efficiency can be the difference between a comfortable finish and a forced bivouac. Perfect application for the quad anchor, tied here with a 180 cm Dyneema sling Dec 12, 2023 · Don't do a pre-rigged rappel, Easy! If you do pre-rig, you can tie the rope to the anchor with a clove hitch (blue carabiner) , as shown below. Each 1,095 likes, 48 comments - alpinesavvy on April 4, 2023: "How strong is a quad tied in a Dyneema sling? . The quad anchor Is a popular choice, but usually requires a 180 cm doubled sling or bulky What’s a “series” anchor? The quad anchor rig offers fast set up, great strength, good load Learn all about it here. If you have two stout bolts or screws next to each other, get the benefits of fast set up, super strong, good load Sep 27, 2019 · Here's an unconventional approach to anchor building - tie a girth hitch at the master point. Apr 14, 2025 · Quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. Oct 14, 2019 · Example: Standard anchor on a mini quad (180 cm runner). Here’s a clever Jan 2, 2023 · The quad anchor Is a popular option, as it gives good equalization, full redundancy, and convenient dual clipping points. Whether it's knots, direction of load, redundancy, no extension, or equalization, there is nuance to anchor building. The quad anchor Is a popular option, as it gives good equalization, full redundancy, and convenient dual clipping Jun 2, 2024 · The extension allows them to stand close to the anchor but not be pulled around by the rapelling person, who is tensioning the rope. Let’s learn some new anchor setups! Aug 2, 2025 · A series of quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. k. Here's a variation, the offset quad. Dec 27, 2021 · Method 2 - Use a “real” anchor (quad, 120 or 60 cm sling) Whatever anchor system you used on the way up, you can probably also use it on the way down. The quad anchor, first mentioned (I think) around 2006 by John Long in his book “ Climbing Anchors ”, was an attempt to have the Holy Grail in anchors. Mar 18, 2020 · A big wall anchor does not have to be a 25 carabiner engineering project, nor modern minimalist. Learn a few here. Carrying a cordelette that’s “open”, or untied, can be more versatile. Pre-rigging improves safety, because the last person can get a safety check, and it improves speed, because there’s no waiting around for each person to rig for the rappel. There's a broad middle ground that gives you redundancy for your hauling system, is fast to set up, sufficiently strong, and has no knots to untie. Mar 19, 2024 · Dawson recalled having removed his quad anchor from the bolts while he and his friend sat and relaxed after climbing Lie Detector. Jun 7, 2020 · Find yourself at a chain anchor with a single huge ring or two equal lengths of chain? Lucky you, your anchor building may have gotten a lot easier. Let's check out some real testing on this rig, from the gear-busting, mad scientist genius Ryan Explore expert tips, NorthWest climbing guides, and mountaineering resources to improve your outdoor skills and trip planning. For the complete article: Google: "alpinesavvy quad 120 cm”. Let's look at a few ways to set this up. 3 lengths of quad slings . Quad anchor with two 120 cm slings . ) Premium Article available The quad anchor, in the right situation, has some nice points - good load distribution, two independent master points, fast set up, and super strong. For this example, the right bolt. The quad anchor, typically tied with a 180 cm Dyneema sling, is an increasingly popular choice for bolted anchors or ice climbing. With some clever rigging, you can simply use the rope, with no slings or other cordage required. Jan 14, 2025 · When and where is the best use of locking carabiners on an anchor? On the gear or bolts? On the masterpoint? Is it a multi pitch anchor, or a toprope? Can I use lockers on “half” of the anchor? It's a contentious and important discussion, so let's take a look. Unlike a pre-tied quad, this has zero welded knots to untie either on your climb or at the end of the day. See full list on climbing. Keeping a quickdraw clipped to the last bolt on each route can help the rope stay separated and minimize a pendulum. If you tie a small loop in each end, also known as “bunny ears”, you can reach placements that are farther apart, carry a shorter amount of cord, and rig an alpine block and tackle. The quad anchor gear remained attached to his harness, while his friend remained tied into the rope. Dec 7, 2023 · If you have a 240 cm length sling, it can be annoyingly long to use on a two bolt anchor, especially rigged as a quad. Anchor made with only the rope, 2 carabiners and 2 clove hitches. ) Mar 15, 2021 · Securing one end of a rope to two anchor points, a. If you have two stout bolts or screws next to each other, get the benefits of fast set up, super strong, good load distribution and complete redundancy, all in a light, compact package with the “mini quad. For the complete article: 1) See link in Bio, 2) Go here: al" 3,436 likes, 77 comments - alpinesavvy on November 5, 2021: "Double the cordelette strands for a 2 piece anchor . What’s cool about the quad? Mar 24, 2025 · A series of quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. May 28, 2024 · 3 lengths of quad slings Direct article: https://www. A series of quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. Dale posts a lot of great climbing and anchor photos that make you really think about rigging! Follow Dale on Instagram and Facebook to keep your anchor brain engaged. Many of them are strikingly different than those used in many parts of the world. But, there’s a few more tricks than the standard set up that can make your life easier. What if you don't have that gear with you? Here's an alternative: Simply use a pair of 120 cm slings. A 120 cm sling or mini quad anchor is usually a good choice for two bolt anchor, while a cordelette The quad anchor, typically tied with a 180 cm Dyneema sling, is an increasingly popular choice for bolted anchors or ice climbing. ) Jun 9, 2024 · Traditional anchor building teaches always try to “equalize” the load. But, it usually requires a 180 cm doubled sling or bulky cordelette. You’re secure at the anchor, but stay on belay, as you’re only clipped to one bolt. Sep 21, 2018 · Cordelettes - If you want to use one, the first choice is diameter and length. The extended rappel, explained 208 likes, 5 comments - alpinesavvy on April 16, 2020: "The “quad” anchor rig doesn’t have to be tied with a humongo cordelette. Learn where you can maybe cut a few corners and see examples here. Jun 19, 2023 · Cleaning an anchor is one of the most important early skills climbers need to learn when they begin climbing outside, but experienced climbers often get complacent and should reconsider their practice of this skill. You can probably clip the bottom chain links with a large HMS carabiner and simply use that as your master point. This means the weight of rappeler #1 goes on the anchor, and not onto rappeler #2. sqp2k eng kbuppz wid9cg 8emto6l f6vsxcb 8ruc4 dmvka ywfdn dfyl